As I said, Lebanon (more specifically Beirut) does not have a large transport facility. So when it is time to move around the city you have to use your wits, imagination and above all … patience!
The main ways to move around are: the car, of course if you have your own, followed by the motorbike, the service (taxi) and the van. What is that? Now I’ll explain.
The times I used the service, whether because of my non-Lebanese face or perhaps because of my foreign accent, the drivers asked me for double the fare. Tired of spending almost three times more to move within the city, I opted for the van. To be more specific van number 4.
Many things went through my head, from “I have to make my will” to “Great! I’ll be there in five minutes.” I present a summary of what it is like to survive the number 4 itinerary.
How to take a van 101
Badly accustomed to taking the bus, (in Argentina mostly known as colectivos) the first challenge was to see where I hopped on. As in any civilized country, the means of transportation have predetermined stops both to get on and to get off along its route. Sure, well this is Beirut. Keep in mind, here the default is nonexistent.
Then, how do we do? Well you stop in the street and if you see a passing van just stare at it. You would be surprised by the drivers’ ability to telepathetically intuit and when a person wants to get on the van. It is a connection, a unique moment where a single glance is enough to establish that inexplicable link in which the rest of the world disappears and only the driver and you remain. The driver understands you, you get on and nothing else matters. To get off, you can literally ask to be dropped in the middle of the street. No, you do not ring a bell nor anything of the sort. Just hit a 3molma3rouf scream and the guy stops in the middle of the street.
How do I sign in?
When I say van, I do not mean a minibus I’m talking about something more similar to a sardine can. They usually have about four rows of mini-seats for two with a third folding seat at the end of each row on the tiny “hallway.” This means that when you want to get up and settle in, you have to become a contortionist to get a seat. Not to mention the entanglement of legs, bags, crouching heads. Clearly traveling in a van is not for everyone, you have to pass a physical to be able to go onboard.
I do not have my will ready yet
It is well known that one of the main problems in Beirut is traffic. However with n ° 4 that happens to be just a detail. In some ways the laws of physics (or traffic) do not apply to this means of transport. Appealing to the concept of “todoterreno“, it makes its way in the middle of the traffic jams. There is no honk that cuts the way. Of course, when it speeds,you better hold onto something! Your whole life passes like a flash before your eyes. The no. 4 is not intimidated by anything, not even the truck that has priority of passage on the right.
Stop the world I want to get off
The biggest problem I encountered was not so much when I got on, but when I wanted to get off. The first time I got in, I ruled out in advance that the driver spoke English which led me to communicate in a rudimentary Arabic. I must emphasize that they have always endeavored to pseudo-understand me and have done so with the best will.
All up there very nice, but the inconvenience is when you get caught in the last seat. Those in the folding seats have to go down, folding the seats so you can pass. The same thing happens if you are sitting in the hallway, if someone asks to get off suddenly you find yourself in the middle of the street with a row of cars honking and dodging motorbikes until they get off, and for the rest get back to back up again. It would be like a tetris upside down.
Is there an app for this?
Once you take the pleasure to travel this fast in the city, you start to ask if there are more lines, and to where they go. For some reason I thought maybe there was some app like there is in Interactive Map Baires. Yes, I know, I ask for a lot. Anyway googling a little I was able find a map with the routes.
Credit Picture: Zawarib
Maybe the next time you come to Beirut, you can go up one and see if you can think of the same things as me.
Just a expat, living in Beirut 